Whoops There It Is, Take 2
Recommended for more advanced riders, this method of involves "rear-weighting" your motorcycle's suspension.
1. Accelerate through the bumps while standing on your footpegs and keeping your weight toward the rear. This allows the front wheel to skim over the bumps, smoothing out an otherwise rough ride.
2. To avoid excessive jarring, remember to stand on the footpegs with your knees and arms slightly bent.
Monday, October 27, 2008
Whoops, riding them
Whoops There It Is
Whoops, or whoop-de-doos as they're known in old school parlance, are closely spaced bumps usually found in heavily used sections of a trail. (If you're a skier, think of a mogul run. Same idea.) Creating a roller-coaster effect when riding up one bump and down the next, whoops can be approached in one of two ways. Both should be done while standing on the bike's footpegs. This is the first and more basic method:
1. Ride at a slow or moderate pace, keeping both wheels on the ground.
2. Use your legs and arms as shock absorbers while keeping your weight directly over the center of the motorcycle.
3. Establish an appropriate and comfortable speed and rhythm over the bumps. (There's a reason a set of whoops is often called a "rhythm section" in off-road racing.)
Read more about MX
Whoops, or whoop-de-doos as they're known in old school parlance, are closely spaced bumps usually found in heavily used sections of a trail. (If you're a skier, think of a mogul run. Same idea.) Creating a roller-coaster effect when riding up one bump and down the next, whoops can be approached in one of two ways. Both should be done while standing on the bike's footpegs. This is the first and more basic method:
1. Ride at a slow or moderate pace, keeping both wheels on the ground.
2. Use your legs and arms as shock absorbers while keeping your weight directly over the center of the motorcycle.
3. Establish an appropriate and comfortable speed and rhythm over the bumps. (There's a reason a set of whoops is often called a "rhythm section" in off-road racing.)
Read more about MX
School Days
School Days
One of the best tips we can give new riders? Take an off-road riding class. Honda and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) offer great programs that are as fun as they are invaluable. Check out where to go in Rider Education.
One of the best tips we can give new riders? Take an off-road riding class. Honda and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) offer great programs that are as fun as they are invaluable. Check out where to go in Rider Education.
Tires, tires, tires...
Pressure Check
Always check your tires before heading out on the trail, since proper air pressure is essential to your tires providing the best traction possible while improving resistance to punctures and flats. Refer to your owner's manual for the correct psi specifications (these can also be found embossed on each tire's sidewalls).
Read more about MX
Always check your tires before heading out on the trail, since proper air pressure is essential to your tires providing the best traction possible while improving resistance to punctures and flats. Refer to your owner's manual for the correct psi specifications (these can also be found embossed on each tire's sidewalls).
Read more about MX
Find places to ride...
Where to ride
There are plenty of places throughout the United States (and Mexico and Canada too) to ride a dirtbike, offering a variety of terrain types and trails suited to all levels of riders.
First, however, you need to find out where you’re allowed to ride. Start by asking your friends who ride. Maybe look into joining an off-road club. Another good idea is to check out the U.S. Forestry Service Web site, as well as other sites dedicated to off-highway vehicle (OHV) recreation. Or, simply use our handy Trail Finder tool on this page to help steer you to your region’s closest OHV-legal riding area.
Learning where to ride is one of the first steps to spending more time on your new CRF. So start looking—and get riding!
There are plenty of places throughout the United States (and Mexico and Canada too) to ride a dirtbike, offering a variety of terrain types and trails suited to all levels of riders.
First, however, you need to find out where you’re allowed to ride. Start by asking your friends who ride. Maybe look into joining an off-road club. Another good idea is to check out the U.S. Forestry Service Web site, as well as other sites dedicated to off-highway vehicle (OHV) recreation. Or, simply use our handy Trail Finder tool on this page to help steer you to your region’s closest OHV-legal riding area.
Learning where to ride is one of the first steps to spending more time on your new CRF. So start looking—and get riding!
Know your trail type - Riding MX Trails
Trail type recognizing the terrain
Wide-open deserts. Tight, root-twisted woods. Rock-strewn hills. Dry river sand washes and endless dunes. You name it, there’s a terrain for every type of off-road riding. Here are four of the most common you’ll find as you break in your new CRF.
Dirt
Given the wide variety of dirt trails available across the U.S., this is probably the most common terrain type you’ll find when searching for a local riding area. From loose silt and hardpack to dry lakes and gooey (really) clay, there’s a “species” of dirt for pretty much every region in the country.
Out west in the dry, desert areas of California, Arizona, Nevada, Utah and such, you’ll usually find a mixture of hardpacked dirt and sand; whereas in the damper Pacific Northwest and Northeast states, trails will tend to be wetter, muddier and often situated in forests and woods. Dry lakes, of course, will offer up flatter, faster surfaces; while in the deep South and Hawaii, clay—rich, loamy, bright orange-red clay—is king.
So you see, finding a dirt trail for your CRF to stretch its legs on won’t be difficult. The type of dirt, however, will naturally depend on where you live and/or where you plan to ride. They are all fun and present different challenges; and the greater the variety you choose to ride, the better all-around rider you will be.
Sand
When you stop to think about it, it’s possible to encounter sand almost anywhere you go riding; most often you’ll find it in dry river washes and dunes scattered across the Southwestern U.S. and up into Utah, Colorado and southern Wyoming and Idaho. One of the most popular and famous places to go sand dune riding are the Central California Coastal town of Pismo Beach, and Glamis, which is farther down southeast in California's Imperial Valley.
And while riding in sand is a blast, it also requires a certain amount of finesse and technique best summed up in this rule of thumb: Accelerate sooner and brake later than you would on surfaces with greater traction. Your bike will naturally “track,” or waver, in its path when riding in sand (don’t worry, this is normal if a little disconcerting at first), so keep the throttle on and shift to a higher gear if possible. You want to keep your speed up, which will then allow the bike to rise on top of, or “plane,” the sand. Also remember that your bike will stop much more quickly in sand than on harder surfaces, so adjust your braking accordingly.
If you happen to be riding in dunes or similar large areas of barren sand, be wary of hills or dropoffs that might be “hidden” by a lack of shadows. There’s nothing like a midday desert sun to mess with depth perception by making hills, holes and cliffs all appear the same color.
Rocks
When you stop to think about it, it’s possible to encounter sand almost anywhere you go riding; most often you’ll find it in dry river washes and dunes scattered across the Southwestern U.S. and up into Utah, Colorado and southern Wyoming and Idaho. One of the most popular and famous places to go sand dune riding are the Central California Coastal town of Pismo Beach, and Glamis, which is farther down southeast in California's Imperial Valley.
And while riding in sand is a blast, it also requires a certain amount of finesse and technique best summed up in this rule of thumb: Accelerate sooner and brake later than you would on surfaces with greater traction. Your bike will naturally “track,” or waver, in its path when riding in sand (don’t worry, this is normal if a little disconcerting at first), so keep the throttle on and shift to a higher gear if possible. You want to keep your speed up, which will then allow the bike to rise on top of, or “plane,” the sand. Also remember that your bike will stop much more quickly in sand than on harder surfaces, so adjust your braking accordingly.
If you happen to be riding in dunes or similar large areas of barren sand, be wary of hills or dropoffs that might be “hidden” by a lack of shadows. There’s nothing like a midday desert sun to mess with depth perception by making hills, holes and cliffs all appear the same color.
Woods
There’s something especially exciting about working your way through the woods. Maybe it’s the tight, twisty trails this type of terrain offers, with its demand for precision and quick, side-to-side transitions. Or maybe it’s just the idea of enjoying the best of both worlds: a great trail ride in a postcard-like setting.
Whatever the reason, woods riding is one of the best “classrooms” for honing your technical riding skills. It’s also great for practicing obstacle (roots, stumps, rocks, branches, fallen trees, you name it) avoidance.
Some of the best off-road racers grew up riding in the woods, and we highly recommend taking your CRF out on this type of terrain. It’s great fun, and an even better learning tool.
Learn More at GoMotocross.com
Wide-open deserts. Tight, root-twisted woods. Rock-strewn hills. Dry river sand washes and endless dunes. You name it, there’s a terrain for every type of off-road riding. Here are four of the most common you’ll find as you break in your new CRF.
Dirt
Given the wide variety of dirt trails available across the U.S., this is probably the most common terrain type you’ll find when searching for a local riding area. From loose silt and hardpack to dry lakes and gooey (really) clay, there’s a “species” of dirt for pretty much every region in the country.
Out west in the dry, desert areas of California, Arizona, Nevada, Utah and such, you’ll usually find a mixture of hardpacked dirt and sand; whereas in the damper Pacific Northwest and Northeast states, trails will tend to be wetter, muddier and often situated in forests and woods. Dry lakes, of course, will offer up flatter, faster surfaces; while in the deep South and Hawaii, clay—rich, loamy, bright orange-red clay—is king.
So you see, finding a dirt trail for your CRF to stretch its legs on won’t be difficult. The type of dirt, however, will naturally depend on where you live and/or where you plan to ride. They are all fun and present different challenges; and the greater the variety you choose to ride, the better all-around rider you will be.
Sand
When you stop to think about it, it’s possible to encounter sand almost anywhere you go riding; most often you’ll find it in dry river washes and dunes scattered across the Southwestern U.S. and up into Utah, Colorado and southern Wyoming and Idaho. One of the most popular and famous places to go sand dune riding are the Central California Coastal town of Pismo Beach, and Glamis, which is farther down southeast in California's Imperial Valley.
And while riding in sand is a blast, it also requires a certain amount of finesse and technique best summed up in this rule of thumb: Accelerate sooner and brake later than you would on surfaces with greater traction. Your bike will naturally “track,” or waver, in its path when riding in sand (don’t worry, this is normal if a little disconcerting at first), so keep the throttle on and shift to a higher gear if possible. You want to keep your speed up, which will then allow the bike to rise on top of, or “plane,” the sand. Also remember that your bike will stop much more quickly in sand than on harder surfaces, so adjust your braking accordingly.
If you happen to be riding in dunes or similar large areas of barren sand, be wary of hills or dropoffs that might be “hidden” by a lack of shadows. There’s nothing like a midday desert sun to mess with depth perception by making hills, holes and cliffs all appear the same color.
Rocks
When you stop to think about it, it’s possible to encounter sand almost anywhere you go riding; most often you’ll find it in dry river washes and dunes scattered across the Southwestern U.S. and up into Utah, Colorado and southern Wyoming and Idaho. One of the most popular and famous places to go sand dune riding are the Central California Coastal town of Pismo Beach, and Glamis, which is farther down southeast in California's Imperial Valley.
And while riding in sand is a blast, it also requires a certain amount of finesse and technique best summed up in this rule of thumb: Accelerate sooner and brake later than you would on surfaces with greater traction. Your bike will naturally “track,” or waver, in its path when riding in sand (don’t worry, this is normal if a little disconcerting at first), so keep the throttle on and shift to a higher gear if possible. You want to keep your speed up, which will then allow the bike to rise on top of, or “plane,” the sand. Also remember that your bike will stop much more quickly in sand than on harder surfaces, so adjust your braking accordingly.
If you happen to be riding in dunes or similar large areas of barren sand, be wary of hills or dropoffs that might be “hidden” by a lack of shadows. There’s nothing like a midday desert sun to mess with depth perception by making hills, holes and cliffs all appear the same color.
Woods
There’s something especially exciting about working your way through the woods. Maybe it’s the tight, twisty trails this type of terrain offers, with its demand for precision and quick, side-to-side transitions. Or maybe it’s just the idea of enjoying the best of both worlds: a great trail ride in a postcard-like setting.
Whatever the reason, woods riding is one of the best “classrooms” for honing your technical riding skills. It’s also great for practicing obstacle (roots, stumps, rocks, branches, fallen trees, you name it) avoidance.
Some of the best off-road racers grew up riding in the woods, and we highly recommend taking your CRF out on this type of terrain. It’s great fun, and an even better learning tool.
Learn More at GoMotocross.com
MX Schools
MX Schools
Whether or not your goal is to be the next Kevin Windham or Johnny Campbell, racing schools are a great way for experienced riders of all types to continue developing riding skills and increasing confidence that can then be applied to both the trail and the track. There are several programs available across the U.S., each teaching techniques specific to different types of riding, ranging from motocross and enduro to flat track and trials. We highly recommend the two below, both of which offer discounts to Honda Rider’s Club of America (HRCA) members.
Whether or not your goal is to be the next Kevin Windham or Johnny Campbell, racing schools are a great way for experienced riders of all types to continue developing riding skills and increasing confidence that can then be applied to both the trail and the track. There are several programs available across the U.S., each teaching techniques specific to different types of riding, ranging from motocross and enduro to flat track and trials. We highly recommend the two below, both of which offer discounts to Honda Rider’s Club of America (HRCA) members.
2008 Rockstar US Open SX Results
2008 Rockstar US Open SX Results
10/12/2008
L&M San Manuel Yamaha's James Stewart, of Haines City, Fla., won the Rockstar Energy Drink U.S. Open at the MGM Grand Garden Arena, taking home the $100,000 winner's pay check.
Stewart set the stage coming into tonight's main event, winning the superpole, which put him two steps away from claiming the $250,000 Trifecta bonus award. Rockstar Makita Suzuki's Chad Reed, of Dade City, Fla., stopped Stewart from winning the $250,000 when he won the holeshot award. Yamaha's Broc Hepler, of Kittanning, Pa., followed Reed through turn one and Stewart started in fourth.
Reed led the first 16 laps before suffering a major crash that allowed Stewart to move into the lead. Red Bull Honda's Andrew Short, of Smithville, Texas, moved into second place, where he finished. Reed finished third.
In the overall, Red Bull Honda's Ivan Tedesco, of Tallahassee, Fla., finished second and Rockstar Makita Suzuki's Ryan Dungey, of Belle, Plaine, Minn., finished third.
"I wanted to come here and do good for the team," said Stewart. "I was lucky that Chad made a mistake for me. It was a great night and I am glad that we put on a great race for the fans."
Jesse Nelson bounced back from a rough ride Friday night to win the Alpinestars 85cc Mini Invitational. While trailing Nelson, Joe Savatgy, who finished second last night, crashed the timing section, giving up his chase for the lead. Austin Politelli, who won last night's main event, finished second place tonight and won the overall.
Rockstar Energy Drink U.S. Open Overall Results
1. James Stewart, Yamaha (1-1)
2. Ivan Tedesco, Honda (2-5)
3. Ryan Dungey, Suzuki (5-4)
4. Andrew Short, Honda (9-2)
5. Justin Brayton, KTM (4-9)
6. Josh Hill, Yamaha (3-12)
7. Michael Byrne, Suzuki (7-6)
8. Chad Reed, Suzuki (14-3)
9. Thomas Hahn, Kawasaki (8-13)
10. Broc Hepler, Yamaha (6-11)
Alpinestars 85cc Mini Invitational Overall Results
1. A. Politelli, Suzuki
2. K. Kamm, KTM
3. J. Savatgy, Honda
4. J. Nelson, Honda
5. J. Owen, Suzuki
6. M. Maze, Suzuki
7. D. Epstein, Yamaha
8. M. Bisceglia, Yamaha
9. T. Stewart, Yamaha
10. C. Alldredge, Yamaha
Legends Rematch Race, Saturday Night Results
1. Damon Bradshaw, Yamaha
2. Jeff Matiasevich, Kawasaki
10/12/2008
L&M San Manuel Yamaha's James Stewart, of Haines City, Fla., won the Rockstar Energy Drink U.S. Open at the MGM Grand Garden Arena, taking home the $100,000 winner's pay check.
Stewart set the stage coming into tonight's main event, winning the superpole, which put him two steps away from claiming the $250,000 Trifecta bonus award. Rockstar Makita Suzuki's Chad Reed, of Dade City, Fla., stopped Stewart from winning the $250,000 when he won the holeshot award. Yamaha's Broc Hepler, of Kittanning, Pa., followed Reed through turn one and Stewart started in fourth.
Reed led the first 16 laps before suffering a major crash that allowed Stewart to move into the lead. Red Bull Honda's Andrew Short, of Smithville, Texas, moved into second place, where he finished. Reed finished third.
In the overall, Red Bull Honda's Ivan Tedesco, of Tallahassee, Fla., finished second and Rockstar Makita Suzuki's Ryan Dungey, of Belle, Plaine, Minn., finished third.
"I wanted to come here and do good for the team," said Stewart. "I was lucky that Chad made a mistake for me. It was a great night and I am glad that we put on a great race for the fans."
Jesse Nelson bounced back from a rough ride Friday night to win the Alpinestars 85cc Mini Invitational. While trailing Nelson, Joe Savatgy, who finished second last night, crashed the timing section, giving up his chase for the lead. Austin Politelli, who won last night's main event, finished second place tonight and won the overall.
Rockstar Energy Drink U.S. Open Overall Results
1. James Stewart, Yamaha (1-1)
2. Ivan Tedesco, Honda (2-5)
3. Ryan Dungey, Suzuki (5-4)
4. Andrew Short, Honda (9-2)
5. Justin Brayton, KTM (4-9)
6. Josh Hill, Yamaha (3-12)
7. Michael Byrne, Suzuki (7-6)
8. Chad Reed, Suzuki (14-3)
9. Thomas Hahn, Kawasaki (8-13)
10. Broc Hepler, Yamaha (6-11)
Alpinestars 85cc Mini Invitational Overall Results
1. A. Politelli, Suzuki
2. K. Kamm, KTM
3. J. Savatgy, Honda
4. J. Nelson, Honda
5. J. Owen, Suzuki
6. M. Maze, Suzuki
7. D. Epstein, Yamaha
8. M. Bisceglia, Yamaha
9. T. Stewart, Yamaha
10. C. Alldredge, Yamaha
Legends Rematch Race, Saturday Night Results
1. Damon Bradshaw, Yamaha
2. Jeff Matiasevich, Kawasaki
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Make Mid-Air Corrections
Sometimes things just aren?t going right or you misjudge a particular jump. You go airborne but your front wheel just isn?t right; it's either too high or too low and you know it.
Most riders will catch the error at the last minute. If it's too high they'll engage the clutch while hitting the rear brake. Down she comes. If the front wheel is too low, you'll see them juice the throttle to make that adjustment and bring the nose up.
Are these methods the best way to handle the situation? Nope. That just wastes time and momentum, the two things that you can't afford to waste. Watch the pros and you'll see how they handle the angle adjustment. They just go with the flow and use body English. That's why they win. They never give up any speed or forward momentum. They just use their bike as an extension of their body, not as a tool of it.
They use body English to consistently make tiny corrections that saves them valuable milliseconds of forward momentum. For instance, imagine coming off the jump with the front wheel too high. You know this is going to cost you dearly if you don?t do something right away. You'll land badly and lose your lead.
What do you do? Just thrust your hips forward and that will force the nose down. If the wheel is too high, just do the opposite After working on this technique, it'll become second nature. Go ahead on your next practice ride. Go off the face wrong on purpose and use your body to make the correction.
Be as one with the bike.
Most riders will catch the error at the last minute. If it's too high they'll engage the clutch while hitting the rear brake. Down she comes. If the front wheel is too low, you'll see them juice the throttle to make that adjustment and bring the nose up.
Are these methods the best way to handle the situation? Nope. That just wastes time and momentum, the two things that you can't afford to waste. Watch the pros and you'll see how they handle the angle adjustment. They just go with the flow and use body English. That's why they win. They never give up any speed or forward momentum. They just use their bike as an extension of their body, not as a tool of it.
They use body English to consistently make tiny corrections that saves them valuable milliseconds of forward momentum. For instance, imagine coming off the jump with the front wheel too high. You know this is going to cost you dearly if you don?t do something right away. You'll land badly and lose your lead.
What do you do? Just thrust your hips forward and that will force the nose down. If the wheel is too high, just do the opposite After working on this technique, it'll become second nature. Go ahead on your next practice ride. Go off the face wrong on purpose and use your body to make the correction.
Be as one with the bike.
A Beginners Guide To Motocross Racing
So you think you want to give motocross a go?
Great idea, motocross is a fun, healthy (and at times painful!) sport that continues to grow in popularity all over the world. In this article I'll guide you through some do's and don'ts to help you get organised and on the start line for your very first race.
Choosing A Bike
If you're just starting out in the sport then there's no need for you to have the latest and greatest bike. Apart from the fact that initially you won't be able to ride a brand new motocross bike to its full potential anyway, there's also the consideration that in the event you decide the sport is not for you then you'll have quite an expensive toy sitting in your garage that you have no use for.
Be realistic about deciding whether a bike would suit you, it can be difficult to decide on a model when you haven't got a whole lot of riding experience but try to find something that is more user friendly ie. smaller engine capacity and preferably unmodified so that the bike is easier to ride. Look for a bike that seems well maintained, if you don't have much mechanical knowledge then see if you can enlist the help of a friend who has some experience with bikes to come with you when you go to look at a prospective purchase.
- Check for obvious oil leaks
- Worn wheel bearings
- Any indications that the bike has done a lot of work and may not have been well maintained.
The end of your local race season and also new model changeover time can be a good time to go bike hunting, racers will be updating for next season with newer bikes so there should be plenty around for sale. Check your local classifieds and bike dealers, internet based motorbike sales sites are a great place to look as well.
The same rule about not needing the latest and greatest applies to riding gear as well, the only item I really would stress that you buy new is your helmet. In that case, spend as much as you can afford on a helmet, your head is one of your most precious bits! The rest of your gear can be bought secondhand, most motocross clubs have a newsletter that will have a classifieds section selling riding gear and various bits and pieces as well as secondhand bikes, again check your local classifieds and the usual places like Ebay etc.
Secondhand gear is a really good idea for kids, even if they decide they love racing bikes they grow that quick that you'll find yourself constantly getting your wallet out to upgrade their gear. After getting a helmet the order of priority would probably be;
- Goggles
- Boots
- Knee guards
- Gloves
- Chest/elbow protectors
- Riding pants and a jersey.
Joining A Club And Practice Riding
OK, you're all kitted out and you've found the motocross bike of your dreams (or at least one you can afford!), now you need to go riding. Find the local motocross club in your area and join up, they'll be able to tell you when practice ride days are and also other important information like how to go about getting a race licence and some other technical details that you need to look into before you race.
When you're practicing riding, build up your confidence gradually. Spend time mastering the very basics of riding and then work your way up to riding at speed and tackling some of the more difficult obstacles on the track.
Watch experienced riders, take notice of how they ride sections of the track that may be causing you trouble. The most important thing is to take your time, yes you need to push yourself a little to improve but if you are feeling uncomfortable with the way you're riding and you have a decent crash it may take quite a while before you get your confidence back. This also applies to the pushy parents I see yelling at their kids, if they're not having fun what's the point of them doing it?
Absorb as much information about riding techniques as you can and then apply them yourself when you're out practicing. In no time you'll find yourself improving and growing more confident and comfortable.
As fun as motocross is, it still can be a dangerous sport so be careful.
Your First Race Right, your technique is razor sharp and you're feeling pretty fast, it's time to put it all to the test. Club meetings are a great way to start off racing, they're low pressure and pretty casual and there are usually plenty of club members who will do what they can to make first time racers feel welcome. Get to the meeting nice and early, sign up and have a look around. If it's at your home track then you will know the layout pretty well from all those practise laps. Attend the pre-race riders briefing and get ready for practise.
Practice shouldn't be a race, take your time and have a good look at the track and then put on some pace and do a couple of laps at a speed close to what you would race at. Once the race program has commenced, wander up and have a look at how the starts are run, take notice of the procedure so you will know what to expect when your race is up. Keep an eye on the race order and get up to the start line with plenty of time to spare before your race. Here in Australia the most common ways to decide who starts from which gate is done by a random draw, usually a numbered peg out of a bucket.
Choose which gate you want to start from and then get into position, put your bike in gear when the 30 second board is up, load the bike up against the front brake (a technique where you apply the front brake and partially release the clutch until the bike is pushing against the brake) when the 5 second board is up and when the gate drops you're away!
Motocross racing is a great sport but it can be quite daunting when you first start, just remember to go at your own pace initially and build your confidence and above all have fun!
Beat Forearm Pump
Are you having problems with forearm pump? You're not alone.
Follow these tips along with your regular motocross training program to minimize this problem. Emphasize your forearms when you do your pre-ride stretching routine. Tight muscles in this region will just exasperate forearm pump.
The best way to perform this stretch is to be sitting on your bike; that way you'll target the forearm muscles just right.
Follow these tips along with your regular motocross training program to minimize this problem. Emphasize your forearms when you do your pre-ride stretching routine. Tight muscles in this region will just exasperate forearm pump.
The best way to perform this stretch is to be sitting on your bike; that way you'll target the forearm muscles just right.
- So start by assuming your normal position on your bike.
- While holding your arms straight out with your hands turned up at the wrist, lower your arms far enough so that your fingertips are touching the center of the grips.
- Slowly push against the grips with your fingertips. Hold for one minute. Relax. Repeat until your forearms are loose.
Proper control configuration
It's very important that all controls are properly configured and maintained that way exactly all the time. Both your clutch lever and front brake lever should be in a direct line with your forearms when your body position is poised to attack. Bottom line you must be ergonomically correct all the time.
Part of your training is to ride on a regular basis. We're all busy these days; no doubt about that. But the fact of the matter is that that you and your bike must be best friends to function as a unit. Your body must remain conditioned and fluid. Are your grips too big for your hands? The fact of the matter is that most motocross riders use the grips from the factory. They will do a lot of customization to the rest of the bike and never give a thought to the grips. But the right size grips can be a maker or breaker when it comes to muscle fatigue and form.
Get warmed up and stay that way
Warm up early and stay that way. When you cool off too much, your muscles tighten up. If you get on your bike in that condition for a training ride or to race, you're asking for trouble. Don't use death grip tight gloves. This tip dovetails into the last tip.
You've got to keep your blood flowing
If not, you risk muscle pulls, loss of flexibility, and impairment of your nerves. Your nerves are a feedback mechanism. Don't compromise them.
Finally, give those forearms a workout
Buy yourself a hand spring exerciser. Squeeze it rhythmically for one minute with one hand and the switch to the other. Repeat. Make it a habit by doing it along with another activity, such as when you're watching TV. Another exercise that helps is this: put a comfortable amount of weight on a barbell. Sit on a bench with your arms resting on your legs and wrists 4 beyond your knees, palms up. Holding the barbell with both hands, just curl your wrists repeatedly. Flip your arms over and curl your wrists the other direction.
All riders will experience forearm pump; it's a fact of life whether you've been riding a week or ten years. When you ride, focus on remaining fluid and loose. This is one of the best ways to control arm pump after you've prepared with the above tips.
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